Find your next motor — right here in NI

Always view in daylight, and never buy a car you've only seen in photos. Walk right round it first:

• Panels & paint — uneven gaps or a slightly different shade on one panel usually means past accident repair.
• Tyres — even wear across all four (and the spare), legal tread of at least 1.6mm. Uneven wear points to alignment or suspension trouble.
• Start it from cold — listen for rattles, watch for blue or white smoke. A warm engine when you arrive can be hiding a hard start.
• Oil cap — mayonnaise-like sludge under it can signal a head-gasket problem.
• Paperwork — service stamps that line up with the mileage, and a V5C logbook in the seller's name and address.

Then drive it properly — motorway speed, a firm brake, tight low-speed turns — not just round the block.

"Clocking" — winding back the mileage — has climbed since dashboards went digital, and it can knock a car's real value by thousands.

• Check the MOT history — every MOT records the mileage. Any year where the figure drops, or barely moves, is a red flag.
• Does the wear match the miles? A "30,000-mile" car with a shiny worn steering wheel, worn pedals and a saggy driver's seat has usually done far more.
• Service history — the mileage on each stamp should climb steadily.

Our free reg check pulls the DVLA record and the MOT mileage history for you — run it before you buy.

Buying from a dealer or trader

You're covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015: the car must be of satisfactory quality, as described and fit for purpose. If it's faulty you generally have a 30-day right to reject it for a refund.

Buying privately

It's largely "sold as seen". The seller only has to describe the car honestly and legally have the right to sell it — there's no comeback on general wear or faults. That's why viewing and checks matter even more.

Neither is wrong — just know which one you're in before you pay. On here, dealer listings are marked ✓ Verified Dealer and private ones 👤 Private seller so it's clear.

• Clean it properly. A valet pays for itself — a tidy car photographs better and looks cared for.
• Gather the paperwork. Service book, receipts, MOT certificates and both keys all add buyer confidence.
• Take 8–10 bright photos — outside in daylight, plus the interior, boot, engine bay and any marks. Honesty sells faster than hiding faults.
• Price it on reality — what similar NI cars actually sell for, not the dreamer prices.
• Write it up straight — mileage, year, MOT date and any known faults up front cuts out the time-wasters.

Start with a free valuation for a realistic guide, then list it free here.

• Load area — check for a solid floor, damage, and sliding-door runners that work smoothly.
• Signs of hard graft — a sagging rear or knackered suspension means it's carried heavy loads.
• The big-ticket items — on high-mileage diesels, ask when the cambelt and clutch were last done. They're expensive jobs.
• Licence & VAT — confirm the weight class suits your licence, and whether it's VAT-qualifying (you can reclaim the VAT if you're registered).
• Extras that add value — ply-lining, a tow bar, roof rack and a full bulkhead.

HP (Hire Purchase)

You pay the whole car off over the term and own it outright at the end. Higher monthly payments, no sting in the tail.

PCP (Personal Contract Purchase)

Lower monthly payments, but a large optional "balloon" payment at the end if you actually want to keep the car.

Compare the total amount payable and the APR — not just the monthly figure — and check the early-settlement terms. And never buy a used car with outstanding finance still on it: legally it isn't the seller's to sell.

We're not financial advisers — always read the agreement in full before you sign.